Frequently Asked Questions

Nearly all of Rob’s lanterns are inspired by lanterns depicted in period artwork or originals in museum collections. They are not exact reproductions but are intended to be as close to the historic example as can be practically achieved.

Rob uses an acid etching process to antique his lanterns. The new shiny lanterns are soaked in a mixture of acids and other ingredients for a period of time and then are set out in the air to fester. The soaking and festering is repeated until the lantern looks right. When the desired look is achieved, the lanterns are neutralized in a base bath before going into an oven for drying. The dried lanterns are then sprayed with a flat or matte clear finish to seal the item. The lantern will continue to build a patina over time, and the clear spray slows the process down.

The usual process of painting lanterns starts with antiquing. Rob prefers to antique the metal before painting so that future scratches and dings in the finish will not show shiny tin. After antiquing and sealing, the lanterns are painted with a layer of thin acrylic paint that will soak into the nooks and crannies of the lantern. Then 1-3 layers of heavy body acrylic paint are added using period-appropriate round brushes. This results in a slightly rustic finish with visible brush marks and buildup in the corners. Rob does this to simulate the look of a lantern that has been used and repainted a couple of times.

Rob makes each lantern by hand in his home-based shop. Rob uses traditional techniques on hand-powered tools. Not all of the tools are antique, but operate in the same way as the original tools.

Most of the lanterns are inspired by either an original museum collection item or a lantern depicted in artwork from the period depicted.